This jacket from Joan (Fall/Winter 1998-99) reproduces an 1845 daguerreotype by Carl Gustav Oehme, an early adopter of the medium who trained with its inventor, Louis Daguerre. Superimposing Oehme’s image atop a sequined ground textile disrupts the print registration, producing a shadowy effect that further emphasizes the spectral quality of McQueen’s collection, named for martyred saint Joan of Arc.

Carl Gustav Oehme
Three Little Girls, Berlin, 1845
Daguerreotype
7.7 x 6.7 cm; image: 6.9 x 6 cm sight
The National Gallery of Canada, Gift of Phyllis Lambert, Montreal, 1988
Photo courtesy National Gallery of Canada